April 15, 2024

Zadar Old Town: Sea Organ, Sun Salutation & Roman Forum

Zadar is one of the most underrated cities on the Adriatic — an ancient walled old town with Roman ruins, medieval churches, and two extraordinary modern installations by the sea.

If you're staying in Petrčane, Zadar is your nearest city — and one of the most rewarding day trips in Dalmatia. The old town sits on a narrow peninsula jutting into the sea, enclosed by ancient walls and packed with thousands of years of history.

Getting to Zadar from Petrčane

The drive from Petrčane to Zadar is about 15 kilometres — roughly 20 minutes by car. In summer, the seafront road can be slow; take the bypass inland if you're in a hurry. Parking is available at Kolovare or Jazine (the latter is closer to the old town).

Alternatively, local buses run from Petrčane to Zadar's main bus station, from where the old town is a 10-minute walk.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje)

The Sea Organ is a must. Designed by architect Nikola Bašić and completed in 2005, it is a 70-metre stretch of marble steps descending into the sea, beneath which 35 organ pipes are connected to openings in the steps. As waves push air through the pipes, the sea plays music — a deep, haunting, ever-changing chord that you feel as much as hear. Best experienced at low tide.

Sun Salutation (Pozdrav suncu)

Immediately next to the Sea Organ is the Sun Salutation — a 22-metre circular solar panel installation embedded in the pavement. After dark it glows with an endlessly shifting pattern of coloured light, powered entirely by the energy collected during the day. Alfred Hitchcock once called the Zadar sunset the most beautiful in the world — this installation was designed to frame it.

The Roman Forum

Zadar's Roman Forum is one of the largest and best-preserved Roman public spaces on the eastern Adriatic coast. Dating from the 1st century BC to the 3rd century AD, it covers 900 square metres and includes a pillar of shame to which criminals were once chained. The forum is now an open square surrounded by outdoor cafés — a surreal place to have a coffee among 2,000-year-old columns.

Cathedral of St. Anastasia

Facing the forum, the Cathedral of St. Anastasia is Dalmatia's largest Romanesque church. Its 12th-century facade and tall freestanding bell tower are iconic. Climb the tower for panoramic views over the old town rooftops to the islands.

Practical Tips

• Best time to visit: Weekday mornings in June or September to avoid peak crowds
• Evening: Walk the Riva (waterfront promenade) at sunset, then dinner in the old town
• Markets: The fruit and vegetable market by the land gate opens daily from 6am
• From Petrčane: 15 km, ~20 min by car